I Need a Vacation!

The last two weeks in California have been quite the blur. We visited my family in SF, went to a wedding in Napa, and spent one weekend with Kristin's parents and one weekend with her sister. I guided two trips for Shasta Mountain Guides and Kristin went on a three-day trek in Snow Mountain Wilderness (Mendocino County). We have been eating really well (and too much!), enjoying fine California wine, and visiting as many friends as we can.

As if that wasn't enough, our first travel article was published today. We wrote about having one small backpack with which we could see the world, what's in that backpack, and how we decided what to carry.  We wrote this article in March and April for BackpackingLight.com. Kristin is submitted a second article today: a trip report on our fantastic and challenging trek around the Huayhuash Mountains in Northern Peru. We have a third article due soon, which will analyze our backpacking setup - basically, how good were our initial gear choices and how did everything perform.

To top it all off, we bought tickets to Helsinki, where we'll jump ship to St. Petersburg and start our 10 week Russian Journey. After that, our best guess travel plan is Mongolia, China, Nepal, and India until February, when we head to Italy. We will spend the subsequent six months touring Eastern and Western Europe, Scandanavia, and maybe Northern Africa.

Our friends, now happily married. 

Summit of Shasta, 14,179 feet.

Descending with my four climbers after having summited Shasta. 

The sunset before summit day - the most spectacular sunset I have ever seen on Shasta. 

Two more happy climbers. Happy to have summited, and happy to now descend. Last trip of the season and what a good ending!

Cusco

My mom was supposed to visit us in Chile/Argentina over Christmas and New Years. Two days before her flight, she hurt her leg and had to go in for surgery. Within the few minutes of that heartbreaking phone call, I realized it would be a long, long time before I saw my mom again. We didn't know how serious the injury was, and in turn, we couldn't have known that she would be in cast for months and then many more months of physical rehabilitation.

Kristin and I are nearing the end of our travels in South America. We thought we might leave the continent before my mom fully recovered. While still wearing a soft boot/cast, my mom, and her friend Conrad, managed to meet us in Cusco for a week of eating well, touring the Sacred Valley, riding horses, visiting Machu Pichu, and having a really fun time.

When my mom first arrived, she drank five cups of coca leaf tea. She thought the leaf was from the cocoa tree, when it actually comes from the same plant that cocaine is made from. Drinking the tea doesn't cause any ill-effects, but locals chew the leaves which supresses hunger and provides a mild stimulant. Anywho, we found a shop that made delicious chocolates (free samples!), cookies and brownies - all with coca.

Conrad, my mom and I rode horses for half a day. Somehow Conrad and I ended up with the smallest horses of the group. The riding and the views alone were great, but out adventure was remarkable because we were riding from Incan ruin to Incan ruin.

A trip to Peru is not complete until you visit the artisenal market. Here Kristin is modeling the latest fashion in outdoor winter clothing - the wool balaclava.

Our hostel was only one block from San Blas Plaza, where we were entertained by local musicians and shopped for handmade crafts.













Our last dinner together at an Indian restaurant, where we had one of our most delicious meals in South America.

After my mom and Conrad left, Kristin and I toured the rest of Cusco. We visited numerous museums and a few church. Most interested (to me, at least) was this collection of skulls. The Incan royalty used wood planks and rope to permanently deform baby skulls. These four adult skulls show the extent to which the Incas were able to achieve this effect. I thought this was just a myth perpetuated by Indiana Jones. 

My Poor Mom

I think I make my mom nervous. I remind her of this fact every Mother's Day. I think I was climbing Mt. Shasta the last four years on Mother's Day. I once called her from above the chutes at the Red Banks at about 12,000 feet. Luckily she couldn't see where I was.

This year Kristin and I are in a decidedly different locale, but still find ourselves lost in the wilderness on Dia de Madres. We are heading 120 kilometers south of Huaraz to the Cordillera Huaywash (pronounced: why wash). This range is only 30 kilometers long but is supposed to be one of the best treks in the world. Very rugged, remote and with many mountain passes over 15,000 feet. The entire loop is supposed to take 10-12 days to hike, even with mules carrying  your food and gear. We are bringing 8 days worth of food but hope to complete the loop in 7 days.

So, mom, I am sorry I won't be able to call you on yet another Mother's Day. I hope you understand. If it makes you feel any better, Kristin can't call her mom either. And maybe, in the bigger picture, I'm doing you right by living my dreams, just as you taught me. Happy Mother's Day. Love, Danny.

Mom: Can't wait to see you in Cuzco in two weeks!

Crossing Borders

It may sound ridiculous, but we have gone over the Chile/Argentina border 8 times in less than two months. It's always a fun event but the most recent crossing was also the most spectacular so far.

Kristin's family visited us for the holidays. As you've read, we spent Christmas in Mendoza and Uspallata, Argentina. On the already-long bus ride from Uspallata to Valparaiso, Chile, we had the bonus opportunity to wait on the bus for 2 hours. This was just before the border and we couldn't get off of the bus. Eventually we were able to check out of Argentina, then check into Chile, and then go through Chilean customs. They are atypically stringent on the Chilean side. I didn't think I had anything to declare, but they check out bags regardless. I had fun trying to describe why I had so much muesli, oatmeal, 10-grain cereal, and Clif Bars. I maintained that I was vegetarian and it was hard to find these foods in Chile (not so true, except for Clif Bars, which are non-existent in South America). The customs agent also found a bag of millet, which I argued was like oatmeal even though I didn't know the Spanish word for millet. Twenty minutes and much discussion later, they had determined that millet is a seed, that I did not declare that I had seeds, and I had therefore lied on my official entry documents. Fuuuuuudge. Another ten minutes of argueing (still in my broken Spanish) and I found myself in a backroom office, no windows, trying to further explain my way out of this situation. Kristin didn't know why I was taken away, nor where I was going.

The first agent filled out four very official looking documents, all in triplicate, which needed my signature to certify that my contraband was: brought in by me, taken by the authorities, and then destroyed. After the fun was over, my new friend left the office. A few minutes later I made a new acquaintance. This agent was going to fill out the paperwork for my citation and fine. When we got to the part about why I brought seeds and didn't declare them, I tried to explain my desire (need?) for a special diet. Eventually it was easiest to say that I am diabetic. The agent perked up a bit when I told him that. He added that tidbit to my confession, then went to see el jefe (the boss). Some more waiting. Finally, he returned and said that I would only get a citation  and no fine. Yay for diabetes! My brother Neil worked for the American Diabetes Association for three years. He'd be proud that I am still raising awareness around the world.

Anyways, more paperwork, my waiting, more signature, copies made, red tape, and finally I was released. Only an hour gone and I was back on the bus, which had been waiting for ME this whole time. The bus passengers applauded when I finally boarded. The bus driver was gunning it before I even got to my seat.

Lesson learned: don't eat seeds.

Second lesson learned: Argentina is better than Chile

Third lesson learned: don't cross borders with other people, it just complicates things. So, to ensure this doesn't happen again, Kristin and I are taking a bus to Cochamo Valley (2 hrs east of here) and then hiking for an estimated 6 days across the border into Argentina. This is totally legit as there are no roads leading through this section of the Andes. We'll see how it goes. We are in Patagonia and the weather is supposed to be fantastically wet. If all works well, we'll end up in the hippie town of El Bolson. Then north to Bariloche for more hiking and chocolate.

Stuffing my pockets as I run from the authorities.

New Year's Eve

We have been successful at avoiding crowds up until now. However, going to the most popular place in Chile to celebrate New Years proved to be a superb idea.

When Mark G. and Catalina M recommended the coastal town of Valparaiso, I thought it would be a ritzy beach town with no character and a lot of tourists. That describes the neighboring town of Vina del Mar. Valparaiso left us wanting for nothing. It's a hilly port town with normal blue and white-collar workers. There is a culture of street art (ie elegant graffiti) and colorful houses. We found excellent vegetarian restaurants and good fresh seafood. It was easily our favorite city for food. The street are relatively pedestrian-friendly and by far the best way to see the city is on foot. So, as far as cities go, this is definitely my favorite! (Mendoza is a close second).

Valparaiso is probably fun year-round, but being there for New Year's Eve amped up the fiesta exponentially. Before heading out for the night, we whipped up a great pasta dinner at our hostel. Three bottles of wine helped wash it all down. At 11pm, we made our way to the waterfront for "artificial fire" (fireworks). The main street was closed for 15 blocks. There were no less than seven visible, synchronated firework displays lasting over twenty minutes. I've never seen such a spectacular spectacular in my life.

We were back at the hostel by 1am. We could hear the distant pulse of dance music as people partied their way into morning. We could still hear the music at 9am as we ate breakfast. Partying until morning seems fairly standard for Chile and Argentina. I don't know how they do it!

K. and I are now back in Santiago. Her family left today and we are sad to see them go. It was such incredible fun traveling with them. We are faced with some difficult decisions to make on where to travel next, how long, what flights and visas are needed, etc. Plus, we're looking at an uncertain future of when we'll see our families next. Boo.

Our Favorite Dessert. Oh wait, we licked the plate clean before a photo could be taken.

How could you not like a farmer's market like this?

Celebrating the first few minutes of 2010!

Superlatives

Kristin and I had a chance meeting, and subsequent friendship, with another backpacker from the US. Somehow we got onto the subjective of high school reunions and superlatives. K. completed an Ironman on the day of her high school reunion; I was in Guatemala on the start of our two-year journey. In high school, K. was voted "Most Likely to Succeed", Alisa was "Most Likely to Embarrass You in Public" (which she proved accurate on our trip) and our friend Steve was "Class Clown." I was apparently unremarkable.

Writing a blog makes me feel like I'm in the position to give out my own personal superlatives though, for all of my friends and family who are supporting us on this trip. So here they are, in the no particular order, the Trek Together Awards for 2009:

Best Emailer: my brother Neil

Best Blog Commenter: the tag-team efforts of Chris and Hillary

Funniest Emails: Todd and Kate


Best WTF? Emails and Comments: Cristian in Italy

Friendliest Traveler: Steve ("Tully")

(Steve charming the pants off of a caterpillar)

Most Improved Rock-hopper and River-crosser: Kristin

Largest Self-Improvement: Mia
My niece went from being a few cells to 15 pounds this year alone. By my calculations, she will be the size of a killer whale by next summer.


Most Improved Skier: the Honorable Constable
He had his first ski lesson last year and is now working as a cross-country ski instructor in Kings Canyon National Park.

Longest Travels to Meet Us: Alisa
Thursday - Missouri to Chicago
Friday - Chicago to Minneapolis
Saturday - Minneapolis to Missouri and Missouri to Miami
Sunday - Miami to Santiago and Santiago to Mendoza

Most Likely to Never Stop Traveling: Me

Most Likely to Get Bit by a Bug: Kristin

Favorite Village: San Garcia de Rivas (Chirripo Nat'l. Park, Costa Rica)
Favorite Town: El Chalten (Los Glaciares Nat'l. Park/Fitz Roy, Argentina)
Favorite City: Valparaiso (Chile)

Favorite Book: Born to Run: A Hidden Tribe, Superathletes, and the Greatest Race the World Has Never Seen

Favorite Card Game: Shithead (Thanks Tom)

Best Group Photographer: Joby Gorrilapod

Best Non-Profit: Avivara

New Favorite Outdoor Company: Rab

Most Unimproved Outdoor Company: Golite

Best Host: Everyone!

Of course we can't name just one. We can't express our gratitude to those who have given us a home while on the road. Pratt/Warzyns, Eric W., Kate and Todd, Sarah K, Brooke and Mark, Shirley and Dennis,

Ann and Gary, Juanca, Chris and Hillary, the Wilsons, Carlos, the Tennessens.

Christmas in the Andes

Between Mendoza and Aconcagua lies the tiny, tree-shaded town of Uspallata. Their singular claim to fame? Scenes from Seven Years in Tibet were filmed here. Our cabana manager even has a picture of him with Brad Pitt.

We didn't come here to find relics of the famous actor though. We wanted to find some tranquility, enjoy family time together, and go hiking! We're halfway through our stay here and we've been able to accomplish all three.

On Christmas morning we played card games and ate a heart breakfast of 10-grain cereal, bananas, almonds, and cinnamon. We hiked 12 miles to Cerro de Siete Colores (Peak of Seven Colors). It was blazing hot and there was no shade, but the invigorating hike satisfied all of us. We returned to appetizers of apples and cheese and wine. Dinner was Lentil Dal and salad. Dessert was a Tennessen family special recipe. It contains peanut butter, chocolate and maple. All you really have to know is that it was delicious and I ate as much as everybody else combined. You are not surprised.

Today our hiking ambitions are smaller, and delayed by a nice cafe with chocolate, free wifi, and air conditioning. The tables fit together nicely so we can play more card games too. Tomorrow we'll rent some bikes and bike towards the Andes to a pre-colombian Incan site.

I think we're all very happy with our decision to hit the countrside for Christmas. It's quiet, non-touristy and good for hiking. The air is fresh and the sun is shining every day. We stocked up on good wine before coming here.

Last year, K. and I spent Christmas skiing the best December snow that either of us have seen in Tahoe. Light, fluffy and too early for most skiers. This year, we're in a hot, desert town in Argentina. We're at 2,000 meters and looking up at the Andes (5000-6900 meters).

(Instead of reindeer, Santa rides a psychedelic triceratops in South America)

Marilyn taking respite in rare shade, enjoying an Argentinian candy bar.

One of the many fascinating mountains on our hike to Cerro de Siete colores.

Our friend Steve, taking in the dramatic views of the colored valleys below.

Christmas Dinner. In Mendoza we hosted my friend Piero from Italy. In Uspallata, we adopted Steve for Christmas. He's a solo traveler spending half a year down here and has been a great addition to our holiday celebration.

Wine, Wine, Wine and Sometimes Chocolate

Four days in Mendoza, four wineries, and more wine and chocolate than I can remember. Hmmm, delicious.

K's family - her mom, dad and sister - came down for the holidays, escaping the blizzards striking the midwest. They immediately left Santiago to join me and Piero in Mendoza. The two of us cooked up our own storm in the kitchen, with brown rice-based asparagus risotto, salad, fresh breads and cheeses, and of course, local wine. We ate until we were full, and then ate some more. We drank before, during and after dinner. And this, my friends, was our theme for Mendoza.



Argentina is the 5th largest producer of wine in the world and Mendoza is at the heart of it all. Our first full day here was a relaxing day of walking around the city, enjoying the tree-lined streets and numerous parks and plazas. We hiked up Cerro de la Gloria for a great panoramic of the city. Day two was spent on four winery tours. Many of the people at the wineries had been to UC Davis because of their wine expertise and proximity to Napa/Sonoma. We downed more glasses of wine than anybody cares to remember, to the point where we swore off wine forever. Or at least until the next afternoon. On Day three we recovered from Day Two, until we started reliving the joys of day two by imbibing the bottles we bought at the wineries. All of this wine was accompanied by vegetarian dishes lovingly created by Chef Alisa.



We did eat out two times. One night Piero, Dennis, Marilyn and I went to an bar-b-que buffet. At only $8 per person, we easily plowed through a few cows and a cart of ice cream. If Argentina is known for three things it is: tango (which we have yet to taste), wine (see above), and the best beef in the world. It definitely delivered on the meat. However, we were also able to find a vegetarian buffet on another day. I believe it was the best vegetarian food I've ever had. It was also the only veggie buffet I've been too.

My mouth is watering just thinking about all of the good food we've eaten. Mendoza is a rather pleasant city and the wineries are muy fantastico. I definitely like Argentina!

After a few days in the city though, we were all ready to hit the road and find some mountains for Christmas. . .

The royal treatment from our friends at Piatteli Vineyards. Because we know the owners back in the States, we got to drink straight from the barrel, the steel taps, and our tour was led by the wine master. They also delivered three bottles to our apartment for later enjoyment.

After another thorough wine tasting at Bressia Vineyards

Piero drinking straight from the tap at Piatteli Vineyards